Text Transcript with Description of Visuals
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| [Music] | Onscreen text. Washington State University Extension presents, How to Build a Three Bin Compost System. |
| Composting is the most practical and convenient way to handle your yard waste. It can be easier and cheaper than bagging these wastes or taking them to the transfer station. Compost also improves your soil and the plants growing in it. If you have a garden, a lawn, trees, shrubs, or even planter boxes, you have a use for compost. Today, we are going to build a three-bin compost system. | Outside, a man shovels compost in a wood frame bin with wire mesh sides. Three-section wooden slat bins are shown. A close-up shot of a hand planting a small sprout in wet soil. Then, a man trimming branches from a large shrub. |
| Three or more bins allow waste to be turned on a regular schedule. These type of units are most appropriate for gardeners with large volume of yard waste and produce high-quality compost in a short amount of time. | An overheard view of a three-part wooden bin with wire mesh sides. Then, a person using a pitchfork to turn a pile of compost in a section of one of these bins. Dark brown compost in a three-part wooden bin. |
| Here is the list of supplies you will need. | The list reads. Materials: Seven, twelve foot cedar two by four. Used for dividers and base, top and lid rails. Six, eight foot cedar one by six. Used for front slats. One, six foot one by four lumber. Used for front runners. One six foot one by six lumber. Used for center runners. Three, six foot one by two lumber. Used for back runners. One, ten foot two by two lumber. Used for lid. Two, six foot two by two lumber. Used for lid. Twenty five foot roll, thirty six inches wide half inch hardware cloth. Used for dividers and back of bin. Two hundred fifty poultry net staples or one inch galvanized staples. Used for attaching hardware cloth to dividers and bins. Twelve, half inch carriage bolts, four inches long. Used for attaching base and top boards to dividers. Twelve, washers for bolts. Used for attaching base and top boards to dividers. Twelve, nuts for bolts. Used for attaching base and top boards to dividers. Three pounds, sixteen D galvanized nails, three and a half inch. Used for divider and bin construction. One half pound, eight D galvanized casing or finish nails, two and a half inch. Used for lid construction. Twenty feet, clear corrugated fiberglass panels. Used for lid cover. Eighteen feet, horizontal closure strips or wiggle molding. Used for lid cover. Forty, gasketed, aluminum nails. Used for attaching corrugated fiberglass roofing. Three, three inch zinc plated hinges. Used for lid. Four, flat four corner braces with screws. Used for lid. Four, flat three inch T-braces with screws. Used for lid. Tips: Have lumber cut at the hardware store for fast assembly. Always use eye protection when working with tools. |
| It is also available as a PDF download at our website. | The P D F is briefly shown and a link is given. Extension dot W S U dot E D U slash Spokane slash the dash essentials dash of dash composting. |
| The first thing to do is build the dividers. They are made of 2, 2 by 4 by 36 inch and 2, 2 by 4 by 32 inch boards. | A graphic appears showing four two by fours arranged in the outline of a square. Then, a clip of people assembling such a frame with nails and a hammer. |
| Butt-end-nail these together to make a square. Make sure each section is square. | They measure the interior angle with a carpenter's square and the diagonal length from one corner to the opposite corner with a measuring tape. |
| Next, attach the hardware cloth to the dividers. Stretch it tightly and secure with nails or staples every 4 inches around the edge. | They place a square of wire mesh over the frame and nail it down. This is also shown as a graphic. |
| Repeat for the other three dividers. | A graphic shows four identical square frames all covered with wire mesh. |
| Next, cut 4, 9-foot lengths of 2 by 4's. These will be the base and top of the bins. | A clip of two people completing the next step of assembly. Each stands with a mesh covered square upright at their feet. Two nine foot planks are placed from top corner to top corner, and bottom corner to bottom corner, both on the same side. |
| Drill a half-inch hole through each junction, centered 1 inch in from the inside edge. Secure baseboards with carriage bolts, but do not tighten yet. | The connecting steps are shown as described. |
| Make sure and mark the center of each of these two inside dividers. Mark a center line for each divider on the 9-foot 2 by 4. | A tape measure is stretched across the top nine foot plank and the wood is marked at thirty-one-and-one-half inches. |
| Set up dividers 3 feet apart and parallel to each other. With each divider, line up the center lines and make sure the baseboard is flush against the outer edge of the divider. Drill a half-inch hole through each junction, centered 1 inch in from the inside edge. | The remaining two square frames, covered in mesh, are inserted at equal points along the nine foot boards, forming three separate sections all together. This layout is also shown as a graphic, with a view from above showing the placement of the interior frames. The places where the frames meet the long planks are highlighted. |
| Secure baseboards with carriage bolts, but do not tighten yet. | The two people constructing the bin hammer in large bolts at the highlighted junctures and screw nuts with washers on from underneath. |
| [ Music ] Turn the unit so you can attach the hardware cloth that will be on the back side of the unit. | The two people flip the structure so that the long boards that were on top are now on the side facing the camera. Shown as a graphic, the figure is rotated so that both long boards are on the ground. |
| Now cut a 9-foot piece of hardware cloth -- | The people unroll mesh to cover the back of the structure, which is currently facing up, and nail it in. |
| -- and nail or staple securely to the back of the bin. | In the accompanying graphic, where the long boards are on the bottom, one long side of the structure, essentially the back wall, is highlighted. This side has one long board connecting all four square frames. |
| Do this every 4 inches around the frame. | In the graphic, each board on one side of the structure is highlighted individually. A close-up shows a row of staples a short distance from one another, holding the wire mesh to the board. |
| Repeat for the top 9-foot board at the back of the bin. | The people lay the next long board over the wire mesh, across what will eventually be the top of the back side. |
| Use a carpenter's square to make sure the bin is square, and tighten all bolts securely. | They check the corners and then tighten the bolts with a three quarter inch open-ended wrench. |
| [Music] | They flip the bin back over and spin it around. Mesh now covers the back wall, as well as the dividers and ends. |
| Cut the 6-foot, 1 by 4 in half for outside front slat runners. | The graphic is shown. The two boards facing forward on the ends are highlighted. |
| Nail them securely to the front of the outside dividers and baseboard, making them flush on top and set in 1 inch from the outside edges. | Then, the two people affix boards to those same spots. The new boards are placed parallel to the frames, so that they hang over the frame slightly on the interior side. |
| Cut the 6-foot, 1 by 4 in half for outside front slat runners. | The graphic is shown again, this time with the two interior vertical pieces on the front of the dividers highlighted. |
| Center the boards on the front of the inside dividers and flush with the top edge, and nail or screw securely. | Then, the people screw these on to the frame. These boards are wider than the frame, going past the edges on both sides. |
| For the back runners, cut the 1 by 2's into 6, 34-inch long pieces. | On the graphic, the sides behind each slat runner are highlighted, the part just behind the new board, on the sides of the original frame pieces. |
| Nail back runners parallel to the front runners on sides of each divider, leaving a 1-inch gap for the slats. | An overhead shot appears, showing one highlighted piece on the inside of each of front-facing end frame, and two per the two interior dividing frame front pieces, one on each side. |
| Nail back runners parallel to the front runners on sides of each divider, leaving a 1-inch gap for the slats. | A labeled, overhead close-up of the graphic shows that these boards are to be affixed one inch behind the slat runner overhangs. |
| [Music] | Then, a clip of these pieces being hammered in to the frames. |
| Cut the 8-foot, 1 by 6 cedar boards into 31.25-inch long slats, 18 total. Drop the slats into the spaces between the front and back runners. There should be six slats per bin. | Boards are slid, wide side facing front, into the gaps left by the overhangs, forming a wall along the front side of the center section. |
| And there you are, a complete three-bin composting system. | Then, the completed bin is shown, with slatted walls on the fronts of all three sections. |
| Soon you'll have it full of yard waste and on your way to making nutrient-rich compost. | A person turns compost in a bin, using a pitchfork. A gloved hand sifts through dark, woody soil from a bin. |
| Visit the Spokane County Master Gardeners' website for more information. [Music] | Onscreen text. For more information. Spokane County Master Gardeners. Extension dot W S U dot E D U slash Spokane slash M G slash. The Essentials of Composting. Extension dot W S U dot E D U slash Spokane slash the dash essentials dash of dash composting. There is a Q R code in the center bottom of the screen. Produced by C A H N R S Communications Washington State University. Executive producers. Tammy Wilson, Tim Kohlhauff, W S U Extension, Spokane County. Thanks to, W S U Extension Master Gardener Volunteers, Master Gardener Foundation of Spokane County, Master Composters and Recyclers. Funding provided by Washington State Department of Ecology. This material is funded through a public participation grant from the Washington State Department of Ecology. Ecology reviewed the content for grant consistency but does not necessarily endorse it. Washington State University Extension logo. |